Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Central systems are rated by the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). Many older systems now in use have SEERs of 6 or below By 1994, the average SEER for all units shipped by manufacturers in the U.S. improved to 10.61 for central air conditioners and 10.94 for central heat pumps. Starting 2006 the standard SEER rating is 13.00. The higher the rating, the more efficient the system.

In most cases, definitely not. Cooling systems today are more complicated to service and usually require expert attention in order to comply with local and federal regulations, such as the Clean Air Act which prohibits releasing refrigerants into the atmosphere. An EPA-certified air conditioning contractor or service technician should be called at the first sign of trouble.

Mostly by comparing bids from several contractors, and possibly checking the local Better Business Bureau to be sure the contractor has a good reputation. An A+ rating with the BBB lets you know the business cares about it’s reputation.

Manufacturers publish equipment efficiency ratings which are available to your contractor. Consumers reports or the ARI publishes directories indicating various energy efficiency ratings of specific equipment. It is important that a contractor install a unit that has just the right capacity to cool your home. Units with excess capacity will cycle on and off and work less efficiently, thus increasing your operating costs, and leaving the home uncomfortable with a poor humidity level.

Ask friends and neighbors about the types of systems they have, how much they cost, how long they’ve had them, and how satisfied they are with them. Then ask for recommendations as to brands and local contractors, or ask several different contractors to take a thorough look at your home, evaluate your overall comfort needs, and recommend the best system for you. Look at all indoor climate control options-the entire spectrum of heating, cooling, air filtration, and humidification equipment.

An air conditioner transfers heat-from the inside of a building, where it is not wanted, to the outside. Refrigerant in the system absorbs the excess heat and is pumped through a closed system of piping to an outside coil. A fan blows outside air over the hot coil, transferring heat from the refrigerant to the outdoor air. Because the heat is removed from the indoor air, the indoor area is cooled.

Often it is fairly simple, particularly if the older home has existing duct work or plenty of room for adding duct work. Homes without air conditioning ducts can consider non-ducted systems called Mini Splits, which also provide the advantage of cooling only selected areas very effectively. An important consideration is how well the older home is sealed and insulated.

It could be as simple as replacing a fuse, resetting a circuit breaker or checking to see if the thermostat is set properly. If an electrical problem isn’t the cause, the refrigerant may be low if the system still runs but does not cool properly. This can be corrected by having an EPA-certified technician add necessary refrigerant. Most likely, if the problem involves any major part, such as the compressor, you would hear strange noises similar to those of any mechanical equipment not running correctly, or the unit might not run at all.

This depends largely on individual circumstances– for example, how large is the area to be air conditioned, how large is the family, what temperatures are required, how well the house is insulated, where the house is located, etc. Central systems require internal ducting; window units take up valuable window space. In many cases, if more than three large rooms need air conditioning, it is best to consider central air conditioning. Your contractor can advise you.

Yes. The National Appliance Energy Conservation Act of 1987(Public Law 100-12) sets national standards for residential air-cooled central air conditioners and air-source central heat pumps The NAECA provides for a federal minimum standard of 10.0 seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) for split-system air conditioners and heat pumps, effective Jan. 1, 1992, and 9.7 SEER for single-package air conditioners and heat pumps, effective Jan. 1, 1993. Today all systems must be a min. of 13 SEER.

If you need to use other air conditioners with a central air conditioning system, your central system probably is undersized or the air distribution system is imbalanced. Window air conditioners or split ductless systems may be used in rooms that lack air ducts. Ceiling fans can be a good idea with some indoor comfort systems because they circulate air that tends to stagnate at the top of rooms with high ceilings.

In most instances, yes. Matching a new condensing unit with a new coil is the only reliable way to be certain you are going to get the rated efficiency of the new equipment. Matching a new, high SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) condensing unit with an old indoor coil probably would not result in optimum efficiency.

• Caulk, weather-strip, and insulate (especially the attic) to close air gaps.
• Plan hot work (washing and drying clothes, baking, cooking) for cooler morning and evening hours.
• Pull drapes and shades over windows facing the sun.
• Keep windows and doors closed when the air conditioning is on.
• Use a thermostat control to automatically increase or decrease home temperatures for daytime/nighttime differences to save money.
• Set thermostat control at highest comfortable level– each degree raised reduces energy consumption by 3-4 percent.
• Clean or replace air filters regularly.
• With a new system, consider a service contract for a specified period of time.
• Keep the outside unit free of leaves or other airflow obstructions.
• Have the air conditioning unit cleaned each spring.

You will use less energy to cool your house, resulting in lower electric bills. Sometimes the savings are enough to partially or fully offset the cost of the new equipment within a few years. In all cases, it’s an individual calculation which the homeowner should figure out with the contractor of choice.

A heat pump is like a conventional air conditioner except it also can provide heat in winter. In the summer, the heat pump collects heat from the house and expels it outside. In the winter, the heat pump extracts heat from outside air and circulates it inside the house. The heat pump works best when the outdoor temperature is above freezing. Below that, supplementary heat often is needed. A heat pump can save 30 to 60 percent less energy to supply the same heat when compared to an electric furnace with a resistance heating element

It can vary, depending on how much the system is used and how regularly it is checked or serviced. Generally, the average life of cooling units built in the 1970s and 1980s is about 15 years, but individual units may vary and last much longer, depending on use and how well they are maintained. Heat pumps have about the same life- span– an ARI survey showed average heat pump life to be about 14 years when recommended maintenance procedures were followed. Newer units are expected to last even longer.

The best system depends on many variables, including family size, house location and design, and utility cost and availability. The optimum indoor comfort system might include high efficiency central air conditioning and heating, a high-efficiency air cleaner, and a central humidifier.

The main thing is to have the system checked each year before the peak cooling season– by a qualified contractor or service technician. Then, remember to keep the air filter clean and the outdoor unit free of leaves and debris When do I know it’s time to replace my system? When the system starts giving you more problems than seem cost-effective to fix, particularly when major components such as the compressor start making unusual noises or otherwise indicating need for a service call. When faced with major repairs, consult several contractors for their recommendations. Replacing a compressor is somewhat less expensive than replacing the entire unit, but new units may give you greater efficiency and lower operating costs in the long run.

Yes. Central systems are rated by the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). Many older systems now in use have SEERs of 6 or below By 1994, the average SEER for all units shipped by manufacturers in the U.S. improved to 10.61 for central air conditioners and 10.94 for central heat pumps. Starting 2006 the standard SEER rating is 13.00. The higher the rating, the more efficient the system.

Like most items, in the off-season. That’s when contractors have more time to spend with you determining exactly the best options you would want to consider for your individual needs.

Because newer equipment usually is more energy efficient than older central air conditioning or heat pump systems, you might actually save money by replacing your old system before it completely wears out. Contact local contractors and ask for their estimates. In some cases, the money you save in reduced utility costs might pay back your purchase price of a new system years earlier than you might think.

The three most important factors to evaluate when you are purchasing a new furnace are: Quality, Efficiency and Comfort Features. We have placed a brief explanation here:

Quality

When you buy a new car, the quality of it helps determine how well it will perform and for how long. A furnace is really no different. Purchasing a brand name that has a reputation for quality and reliability can save you headaches and extra expenses down the road.

Efficiency

A furnace’s efficiency rating, or AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency), tells you how efficiently the furnace uses fuel. In general, the higher the efficiency, the less fuel the furnace will use to heat your home. This means lower operating costs for you.

In 1992, the government established a minimum AFUE rating of 78% for furnaces installed in homes. In contrast, many furnaces manufactured before 1992 had AFUE ratings as low as 60%.

Mid-efficiency furnaces, also known as non-condensing or induced draft furnaces, offer efficiencies from 78% to about 80%. High-efficiency furnaces, also called condensing or sealed combustion furnaces, offer AFUE ratings from 90% to about 96.6%.

Usually, the higher the efficiency, the more expensive the furnace. If you live in a cold climate, you will probably recover the additional cost for a high-efficiency furnace in a few short years through lower utility bills. We can use heating data from our area to help you determine approximately how long it will take you to recover the additional cost in energy savings. Naturally, after the payback period, you continue to save money on your energy bills for the life of the system.

Comfort Features

Some mid-efficiency and high-efficiency furnaces offer additional features that provide greater comfort, as well as additional energy savings. Furnaces with two-speed can run on low speed up to 90% of the time, so they operate more quietly than single-speed furnaces.

On lower speeds, the furnaces will run for a longer time when it runs. Longer operating periods translate into fewer on/off cycles, fewer drafts and much smaller temperature swings – only one or two degrees instead of the four degree swings common with single speed furnaces. Plus, better air circulation helps prevent your cold feet created by air “stratification” – warm air rising to the ceiling and cold air settling on the floor. In short, you get consistent, even heat throughout your home.

Variable-capacity furnaces provide the ultimate combination of comfort, efficiency and quiet performance. In addition to the benefits of two-speed furnaces, they offer “smart” motors that can monitor your home’s comfort needs. They automatically adjust the volume and speed of air to provide the most efficient heating or cooling. They offer added electrical efficiency as well: the “smart” fan motors on today’s variable capacity furnaces use less electricity than a 100-watt light bulb. They operate so efficiently that they can actually increase the efficiency rating of your central air conditioning system. It offers you added energy savings when you use continuous fan operation in any season.

Most existing units use refrigerant #22 ®-22). The current schedule mandated by the Federal Government states that new refrigeration equipment using R-22 can be manufactured until the year 2010.
R-22 will continue to be manufactured until 2020, and
re-manufactured R-22 will be available at least ten years after that. Since most air conditioning systems have an average life of 15-20 years this refrigerant will easily be available for any existing system using R-22.

R-410a; sometimes referred to as PURON, is the replacement refrigerant for R-22. PURON is beginning to be used by some manufacturers today, and will be used by all manufacturers by 2010. This is, unless a better alternative refrigerant is developed before that time. We will keep our site updated with the most current Governmental and Industrial standards in regards to this subject.

Quality, Efficiency and Comfort Features. We have placed a brief explanation here:

Quality

When you purchase a new car, the quality of it helps determine how well it will perform and for how long. An air conditioner or heat pump is really no different. Purchasing a brand name that has a reputation for quality and reliability can save you headaches and extra expenses down the road.

Efficiency

Efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps are indicated by a SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio), which tells you how efficiently the unit uses electricity. Heat pumps also have heating efficiency ratings, indicated as HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor). In general, the higher the SEER or HSPF rating, the less electricity the unit will use to cool or heat your home.

In 1992, the Government established minimum efficiency standards for units installed in new homes at 10.0 SEER and 6.8 HSFP. Most air conditioners and heat pumps manufactured before 1992 had SEER ratings below 7.0 and HSPF ratings below 5.0. Air conditioners and heat pumps manufactured today have SEER ratings that range from 10.0 to about 17. Heat pumps are available with HSPF ratings from about 6.8 to 10.0.

Usually, the higher the efficiency the more expensive the unit. If you live in warm and/or humid climate, you will probably recover the additional cost of a high-efficiency air conditioner or heat pump in a few short years through lower utility bills. We can use cooling data from our area to help you determine approximately how long it will take you to recover the additional cost in energy savings. Naturally, after the payback period, you will continue to save money on your energy bills for the life of the system.

Comfort Features

Some air conditioners and heat pumps offer additional features that provide greater comfort, as well as additional energy savings. Two-speed units can run on low speed – using 50% of the energy up to 80% of the time; so they operate more quietly and run for longer periods of time than single-speed models. Longer operating periods translate into fewer on/off cycles, fewer drafts and much smaller temperature swings – only two or three degrees instead of the four-degree swings common with single-speed units. Plus, better air circulation helps prevent air “stratification” – warm air rising to the ceiling and cold air settling on the floor. In short, you get consistent, even cooling throughout your home.

If you purchase a multi-speed or variable-capacity furnace or fan coil with your unit, you will enhance both the comfort and the efficiency of your air conditioning or heat pump system even further.

The efficiency of gas furnaces are measured in what is called an AFUE Rating (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency). Every new furnace has an AFUE rating that has been provided for you, the consumer, to use as a gauge of comparison when it come time to buy a new furnace. The higher this AFUE rating, the lower your utility costs will be. For example, a furnace with a 94% AFUE rating will lose only 6% of the heat produced up the chimney. In other words, for every dollars worth of fuel purchased you lose only 6 cents worth outside. The rest is turned into usable heat for your home. Older furnaces may lose as much as 40% of their heat up the chimney. The savings realized by replacing your furnace can be impressive!

We would be happy to visit you and provide you with information that will help you decide if a new furnace will help reduce your heating bills. We can help to determine a payback period for the new furnace, as well. Contact us for additional information or for a free in home evaluation.

A high quality carbon monoxide monitor/alarm should be installed in your home in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. A good location is in a bedroom. This way you are monitoring the condition of the air while you are sleeping. If you notice an unusual amount of condensation on your windows or are experiencing headaches or nausea, it could be an indication of high carbon monoxide levels. It’s a good idea to have a qualified furnace technician perform an annual safety check and tune-up on your furnace. The technician will determine if there are any leaks or other problems with your system. Remember, carbon monoxide affects people differently. Out of a family of 5, only 1 person may experience the ill affects.

Not really. Add-on energy saving components are usually a sales gimmick in reference to older equipment. In some cases, can cost 25-50% the price of a new system. If you want to address fuel efficiency and safety, you should consider upgrading your heating system to a new product that is designed and certified to do so; along with the manufacturers and underwriting authorities.

Basically, if your existing furnace is more that 15 years old it is most likely no more than 70% efficient, at best. Older models use even more gas. Replacing it with a more efficient furnace not only saves you money on your gas bill, but it also gives you peace of mind on those cold winter nights.

When you’re frustrated with an equipment break-down, it can be tempting to find the least expensive “quick-fix” to get on with your life in relative comfort. That “quick-fix” may be the least expensive now, but it may not give you the most value – or cost you the least – in the long run.

Paying for repairs to an old or inefficient system often simply prolongs the inevitable. It’s almost like putting a bandage on a serious injury. An older system that breaks down once is likely to break down again…and again. That means more emergency service calls or, worse yet, the risk of damage to your home or to other components of your heating and cooling system.

There is also an on-going cost factor to consider. Restoring your old system will only bring it back to its current level of energy efficiency. After you have recovered from the repair bills and the frustration of system breakdowns, you still won’t save on your energy bills.

Even six year old heat pumps and air conditioners are considered grossly inefficient by today’s energy efficiency standards. As are most furnaces built before 1980. You could save up to 60% on your energy bills with new high-efficiency equipment. That’s why installing a new heating and cooling system can actually pay for itself in energy savings within a relatively short time.

Looking at the Big Picture

When one component of your system breaks down unexpectedly, it’s easy to just focus on repairing or replacing that component. But each part of your system works with the others to boost efficiency and reliability, so it helps to keep the “Big Picture” in mind.

Replacing your old furnace with a new higher-efficiency model, but leaving your old mechanical thermostat in place, for example, won’t allow you to enjoy all the efficiency advantages the furnace has to offer. Likewise, if you install a new furnace, but don’t add a humidifier, the air will remain very dry. Dry air feels cooler (as is saps the moisture from your skin), forcing you to operate your new system at a higher temperature in order to be more comfortable. Plus, you can often save on installation costs if you have several components of your system (for example, a furnace and air conditioner) replaced at the same time.

The next time you are faced with a repair on that old furnace or cooling unit, we would be happy to discuss alternatives with you, and show you how a new system may actually be cheaper in the long haul than repairing that old unit! Contact us for additional information or a free home analysis.

Chimney liners are flexible aluminum or stainless steel tubes that are installed on the inside of a masonry chimney that are used to vent a furnace and hot water heater. Due to the fact that new furnaces are more efficient, the flue gas temperatures are much cooler than the older 50-70% efficient furnaces. These cooler fumes release water inside an unlined masonry chimney. This water then freezes and thaws within the chimney causing it to fall apart. The liner heats up rapidly not allowing the flue gases to cool and release moisture within the chimney. The liner may need an insulation sleeve depending on the BTU output of the appliances connected to it and/or if the chimney is on an outside wall of the home. If your existing chimney has deteriorated mortar joints or brick, you should strongly consider installing a liner before the damage is severe. If you have a new furnace installed, a chimney liner for a masonry chimney is a mandatory item required by code (based on Michigan codes – you should check your municipality for local codes and requirements).

As we heat our homes, the air has a tendency to dry out. This dry air can damage the woodwork and furniture you have in your home, as well as sap the moisture from your skin. Dry air even makes you feel cooler, because your body senses heat as a combination of temperature and humidity. Adding humidity to offset this drying process will improve your comfort, as well as preserve the woodwork in your home. As an added benefit, you may actually be able to lower your thermostat a couple of degrees. You will not only feel warmer, but you may lower your heating bill! We even have humidifiers for those homes with hot water heat.

Adding this much needed moisture will make your home a healthier and more comfortable place to spend your time. Contact us and we would be happy to discuss your choices and provide you with pricing for adding a humidifier to your home.

It’s a fact: The trapped air we breathe in our homes can be loaded with dust, pollen, plant spores, and other pollutant particles. In many cases, it’s worse than the air outside. This is especially important if you are one of the many millions of Americans who suffer from some sort of allergy. Because we spend a great deal of our time in our homes, indoor air quality is a real concern!

Standard, disposable air filters, which are very commonly used are very limited in their ability to remove small particles of dust and other debris. They are so limited that they only remove about 15% of the pollutant particles in our homes. While this style filter is better than none at all, more efficient choices are available.

There are two styles of air cleaners: Electronic Air Cleaners and Media Style Air Cleaners. We would be happy to discuss the differences and advantages of these two air cleaners with you and provide you with pricing on their installation. Contact us for details and pricing.